Is your dog a bit of a wimp? A bit of a big girl’s blouse when it comes to other dogs. Obviously each dog has a different character to the next, but can your nervous, trembling pooch be given enough confidence by you to start socializing properly with other dogs. Even if their character by nature is shy and timid, you can help them gain courage so that interacting with other dogs and humans isn’t too stressful for them. It may be that they became this way because of a trauma as a puppy or in adulthood. They may also have other issues like separation anxiety.
Firstly understand that this won’t happen overnight. Be patient. Little and often is the key to slowly building up your dogs confidence.
To begin with start obedience training. It’s the first step in helping to socialise your dog as it will help them to feel comfortable in their body. The better they become at understanding and obeying commands the stronger their confidence will grow. You will praise them when they get something right and that too will develop their feeling of self worth. Physically doing jumps, tricks and runs, will give them a positive sense of their own body as well as strengthen them and keeping them fit. All of this is helpful in building up their self esteem. Teaching them to weave, play fetch and other tricks are fun for both of you as well as exercise and technique learning for your pet. Do not baby them when they are learning. If they need to be corrected because they got something wrong, do it. They will feel confident if they know their boundaries.
Dog socialisation means that your dog is taught (hopefully from a young age) how to feel comfortable with themselves around humans, other dogs and different environments regardless of their breeds and characters. Mixing them in as many different circles of people and pets is the best start. After the age of 4 months, if you have socialised your puppy correctly he should be very confident in new surroundings and company. If you haven’t done this from a young age or you’ve taken on an older dog, then the above obedience training will be a step in the right direction.
Take your dog to the park where you can both sit and watch other owners and dogs. Believe me it will help your dog to get used to being around others without having to interact at this stage. You need to do this as regularly as possible.
You could be unwittingly encouraging your dogs fear by your own behaviour.
Next time you’re walking your dog pay attention to how you react when another dog approaches. Do you immediately tighten the lead or guide your dog away from interacting? Do you talk to him and pat him as they draw closer? You may think this is a good way of reassuring him but your dog will pick up very quickly on your reactions and take being cautious as the normal thing to do when they see a new dog. Keeping quiet and calmly walking ahead without quickening your pace will not alert your dog to any problems. When your dog is scared the first thing you want to do is pet him to reassure him. Don’t, he will think you are encouraging his nervous behaviour as the correct way to feel.
Fear aggression is a state you do not want your dog getting to. This is very hard to correct. It is exactly as it sounds, aggressive behaviour produced as a result of fear. Basically a dog will attack or become aggressive first so that the other dog doesn’t. If you find yours has gone too far down this road then you really should invest in a dog behavioural expert. No amount of obedience training will change the underlying problems. I say “problems” because it is quite a complex issue. Fear, a lack of early socialisation, abuse and possible genetic conditions could all be contributing to this problem.
It may be that you never fully train your dog to change this problem as it is so deeply embedded, but with a behavioural expert and plenty of patience you can definitely help to alleviate it.
As a horse owner, you know how important it is to keep your horses free of worms. Internal parasites such as worms can be very dangerous to the health of your horse and can cause serious problems. Using high quality products to treat your horses on a consistent annual schedule is essential to safeguard their health. The active ingredient in products like Equest Pramox is moxidectin and praziquantel, which combats roundworms and kills all stages of the red worm life cycle.
But what about a mare that is pregnant? Should you switch to a different wormer for a while? If you have a horse that becomes pregnant, is it still safe to use a horse wormer on her or will it be harmful for the developing baby?
Should Equest Pramox Be Used on Lactating or Pregnant Mares?
Just to err on the side of caution, the answer is no. Although many horse owners in online forums have reported using this wormer on their pregnant mares with no effect, the drug is not licensed for pregnant or lactating mares or for foals younger than 7 months. There is a risk of complications and it is a good idea to avoid using this particular wormer if your horse is pregnant just in case it causes a bad reaction.
There are wormers which are designed to be used on pregnant mares or will have no negative risks associated with them. You can ask your vet about what they would recommend. You can use these pregnancy-safe wormers to treat your mare throughout her pregnancy. She will need worming on a regular basis and then at seven days before the due date. The foal will be less likely to pick up parasites if you worm the mother shortly before she gives birth.
Switch Back to Equest Pramox When it is Safe to Do So
Once your mare has given birth and is no longer lactating, you can always switch back so that you can have the beneficial effect of the moxidectin in this horse wormer. This is one of the most effective wormers, so should be used on a regular basis.
Once the foal has reached seven months of age you can begin to treat it with Equest Pramox. As a general rule, foals should start a worming program as soon as they start to graze on the pastures. Be sure to take extra caution with dosages when you are worming a young foal for the first time and watch them for any reaction to the horse wormer.
With this high quality wormer, you will be able to ensure good health and prevention of parasites throughout the life of your horse.
Sometimes, when you just love camping so much, you want everyone special to you to experience it as well. This includes your furry friends. It may seem overwhelming at first, but when done right, it could turn out to be one of the most memorable outdoor trips ever. Dogs love the outdoors so it’s a given that they will enjoy this kind of trip.
Here are some very useful tips to try when camping with a dog:
Find a Dog-Friendly Campsite
It’s common sense to do research on the campsite that you’re planning to visit. Check out their rules and regulations, especially regarding bringing of pets. Better yet, call ahead to make sure! Plenty of campsites allow pets, you don’t want to go to one that isn’t so it’s most ideal to check and make sure before making plans.
Prepare Your Dog’s Documents
While many campsites are now pet-friendly, some do require to check pet’s documentation so be sure you have these to save yourself the trouble. Bring their ID tags, license (make sure it’s up to date!) and vaccination papers. Organize it in one folder so it’s easy to pull out of your bag. These papers may also come in handy in case an emergency situation happens during your trip.
Pack a First Aid Kit For Your Dog
Bringing a first-aid kit for your pet is equally important to bringing your own. Being out in the woods, your dog’s curiosity might peak and he may eat or encounter things that he shouldn’t so there is a higher risk of choking, getting sick, poisoning and the like. Having a pet-specific kit and guide book will be extremely handy in case of emergency situations.
Pack the Basic Dog Essentials
Aside from the basics (enough food, water, blanket, toys, poop bags, etc), bring a strong leash, tether and stake. Some campsites have leash-required zones and there may be times that your pet may need to be secured even if he’s used to not wearing one. Also, it’s ideal to bring collapsible food and water bowls for your dog to carry easily, especially if you’re going to do a lot of hiking.
Book a Visit to the Vet
As humans, we need to make sure that we are healthy enough to go on a trip. The same things goes with our furry friends. At the visit to the vet, make sure that their flea and tick prevention/medication is updated.
Remember, you are responsible for your dog’s actions as well as his well-being in an out of your home. Keep these dog camping tips the next time you visit the outdoors!
1. Is your breed good with kids and retired people? Poodles are the #1 most popular family dog. With Teddy Bear Poodles quickly becoming the most popular. Most people think they don’t look like Poodles at all. I have been breeding for over 30 yrs and I have heard more than once, usually from the man in the family, we are not getting a Poodle. Maybe it is because of the stigma that goes along with the weird hair doo for show Poodles or if it’s just the name I don’t know. But the miniature and Standard Poodles are one of the toughest dog you will ever own. With the toy poodle being the ultimate lap dog. If the Toy Poodle has not grown up around little children they might be sensitive to the fast movements or rough play of children, I recommend that you socialize your Toy Poodle from young puppies to enjoy children and not fear them. Let me tell you once you have owned a poodle you will never change breeds.
Now you can have the most intelligence, non-shedding, friendly, protective, loyal, easiest dog to train. Poodles can look like little teddy bears or in a more traditional cut will look more like a Poodle in the show ring.
Many breeds have well-known behavior issues. Notorious or inherited genetic disposition’s that can turn into destructive behavior which at least are annoying and may go as far as having to hire a professional behavior specialist for help. I have heard people say, is my dog ever going to grow up and out grow these bad habits? Poodles do not have any notorious/genetic bad habits. Some people refer to Poodles as having an old soul. They are wise and have good common sense from the start. Eight week old puppies are easily taught things because they want to please their owners. I often use the term people pleaser to describe my Poodles. Your Poodle will worship the ground you walk on.
I have found male Poodles are preferred over females when it comes to families. Male Poodles seem to like everyone in the family equally. Sometimes females will choose one person as their favorite to lavish their love on. Females can also fight with other females where males seem to get along with everyone.
Teddy bear poodles can look like puppies forever. The Teddy Bear is a special clip that you can request from your groomer. There are many different hair styles that you can put on a poodle because of the type of hair they have.
You can’t go wrong with the Poodle, if you are an inexperienced dog owner or have a busy life style with children the Poodle will be the perfect choice for you.
2. What is special about your breed? Poodles are the most intelligence, non-shedding, friendly, protective, loyal, easiest dog to train. Poodles can look like little teddy bears or in a more traditional cut will look more like a poodle in the show ring.
Many breeds have well-known behavior issues, often called the terrible 2’s. I have heard people say, is my dog ever going to grow up and out grow these bad habits? Poodles do not have any notorious/genetic bad habits. Some people refer to Poodles as having an old soul. They are wise and have good common sense from the start. Eight week old puppies are easily taught things because they want to please their owners, and are intelligent enough to focus on their owners and what they are saying. I have 6 week old puppies that watch and listen to everything I do often turning their head intently listening and learning, they are amazing. I often use the term people pleaser to describe my Poodles. They really worship the ground we walk on.
The miniature and Standard Poodles are one of the toughest dog you will ever own. With the toy poodle being the ultimate lap dog. Let me tell you once you have owned a poodle you will never change breeds.
3. What Dog Group does the poodle fall in? Teacup and Toy Poodles are in the toy group. Miniature and standard Poodles are in the Non-sporting group.
4. What do you breed? I breed Teacup Poodle, Toy Poodle and Teddy Bear Teacup and Toy Poodles.
5. How much exercise does your breed need daily? Depending on the size and temperament of your dog, Poodles, as do all breeds need outdoor exercise, if for nothing else to mentally stimulate them. One to two 15 minutes walks for the smaller ones and up long distance bike rides for the larger ones, and anything in between.
6. Does your breed shed? No.
7. Do you train your puppies or dogs, any suggestions for buyers? My puppies are all house broken using a Potty Park before they leave. Many people don’t have the patience or time it really takes to make the first few months of housebreaking quick and painless. So I do the training for you. If you are a first time dog owner, Poodles are perfect for you. Poodles are a people pleaser they want to be good and crave your approval. They are also a very clean dog.
8. Any notable predispositions with your breed? Poodle love everyone and are very smart don’t let them out smart you. Next thing you know they will have you trained.
9. Do you offer any Certifications related to combat genetic predispositions? Yes, science has identified many DNA markers to assist breeders in breeding the common genetic disease out of the breed. I do genetic testing on my adult breeding dogs to ensure to the best of my ability that your puppy has no genetic health issues. You can read my Puppy sales Contract to see health guarantee.
10. How long have you been breeding? A little over 30 yrs.
11. How many litters a year, do all your babies get attention? It is very important, especially with the Teacup poodles and toy poodles that they are socialized properly. Each stage of their life from birth is impressionable. I try to do everything for my puppies, so they will be adjusted. They are taught not to bark for attention, to lie calmly in your arms when you hold them. They go for short car rides, they are used to going outside, inside and walking on different textures. They are surrounded by all the normal household noises. And most importantly the weaning process is done slowly to ensure they don’t grow up with separation anxiety issues. I won’t have too many puppies at one time that they can’t all get the proper attention they require.
12. Do you Show, any events or activities? Yes I show in AKC confirmation classes and have many Champions. My dogs do therapy dog work in hospitals and retirement facilities. None my own personal dogs but many of my puppies have gone on to compete in obedience and agility trials. I even have some miniature poodles that can out hunt a Labrador Retriever.
13. Do you breed more than one breed? Yes I also breed Yorkshire Terriers.
14. Are all shots up to date when puppies are sold? Yes my puppies are current on vaccinations and worming.
15. Are your pets registered? My dogs are AKC registered.
16. Do you own the parents of the puppies sold, are they available to view? Yes I own the dogs I breed they are all considered my kids a part of my family. Most people request to see the parents. Which I appreciate a consumer educated and interested in the quality of the puppies, and where they come from.
17. Do you have a Contract? Yes my health guarantee and Puppies Sale Contract can be read online or emailed to you upon request.
18. Any guarantee? I have a complete guarantee. My puppies also go to the vet for regular well puppy exams. And you are given a copy of the vet report along with complete shot records. Please refer to my website.
19. Do you have any Client complaints not settled? No I am very honest with my buyers, to be certain they are getting what they want. I am not high pressure and never try to push a puppy on anyone. I have the best before, during and after customer service you could ask for.
20. Why do you think you are a 1st Class Breeder? I breed for the best quality Teacup poodle, Toy Poodle and Miniature Poodle possible. With great calm temperaments, correct confirmation, with beautiful thick curly coats and a gorgeous look. I do genetic health testing on my adult dogs to ensure they don’t carry genetic diseases.
Buying a puppy over the Internet can be a scary thing to do. But from my point of view it is just as scary selling to someone I have never met or seen. I have sold my puppies to many celebrities that have come to my home to pick up their new puppies. I have many testimonials on my face book page, Little Poodle, and on my website. I don’t think you could find a better bred, better raised puppy.
21. Tell us about your area where you pets are raised? My puppies are born next to my bed and many of them right in my hand. I consider my dogs my kids and they live with me like family, since I don’t have any human kids. They are loved, cuddled, and allowed to play in the great outdoor every day.
22. Tell us anything you want, we missed? I can say that you will be totally satisfied if you get a puppy from me. From the quality of my pups to the no pressure sales approach, to the variety of puppies I offer. The best before and after purchase service you can get.
23. Do you offer any pet supplies, products or service, what? Yes here at my place I have some puppy supplies for sale. I also sell the Potty Park at a discount here and on my website. If you click the Potty Park banner link you will save $10.00. I also have a complete list on my puppies for sale page of what I recommend you get for your puppy before you get it home.
Thanks for the Interview
Specializing in Teddy Bear Poodles, Teacup Poodles and Toy Poodles.
My dear travellers, today I have for you a very important and needed entry regarding health and our safety during the journey. Many factors contribute to a successful journey, and one of the most important is the knowledge and awareness of situations that may (although they do not have to be preventive at all!) Meet us in various corners of the earth. Discovering new, often unfamiliar places is fantastic, but somewhere in this eurofia, an ambush, crazy taking pictures of subsequent landscapes and trying the next exotic dishes, there must be a place for a rational approach to taking care of yourself. If somebody thinks that he is untouchable and on vacation or on a journey of dreams only beautiful situations happen in film, he is unfortunately wrong. Regardless of what is the purpose of our journey and what is its nature, taking care of health must be the number one of all activities. During the holiday period, the frequency of trips increases, but this trend is slowly changing and travels appear throughout the year. And more and more often these are remote, tropical and culturally different places. This means that – especially in a new place – we must be well prepared for all possible situations, so that we can easily enjoy the journey.
The quality of life and sanitary conditions in Europe are very high, and we are used to it and often we do not know how many aspects we need to pay attention to during a stay in another country, especially one that is less developed, has a different bacterial flora or diseases that do not occur in our home country. Let’s also overthrow the myth that, with short trips, such as in Europe, we can wave our hand for proper preparation. It does not matter whether we are going to Croatia for a week or a month’s trip to the Amazon. The principles of caring for health, safety and widely understood travel prophylaxis apply to EVERYWHERE. I am not here to scare you, but to share with you my travel experience and what I have often learned about health on the go. Most important, however, is the fact that most of dangerous situations and diseases can be easily avoided by following the basic principles of PREVENTION, ie prevention in advance. Remember that vaccinations before departure are the basis, but the vaccinations alone do not protect us from infection, so our main goal is to prevent any disease from being infected. And for that we have some security rules in everyday functioning. That’s why today I am in a hurry and I have gathered for you the most important rules that we travellers must know and apply. Because we agree, there is nothing worse than being sick on the road.
In the first place, we should remember about water. It is contaminated water and food prepared on it that are among the most common causes of traveler’s illness. Especially when it comes to poorly developed countries, which are a frequent destination of exotic travels. Diseases that can be infected by infected water are, for example, travelers’ diarrhea, typhoid fever, type A jaundice or cholera (hence the vaccination for these diseases is definitely recommended, because contrary to appearances, they are not rare). The easiest way to treat water is to cook it, because it kills all pathogenic bacteria, viruses and parasites. If it is not possible to boil water (eg during survival expeditions), it is worthwhile to obtain chemical treatment agents containing iodine, chlorine or silver compounds, or modern microfiltering filters (portable point-of-use).
RULES YOU NEED TO REMEMBER
1. Drink only bottled water (with a closure protected with foil that is not used in Poland) or canned. Even in restaurants, order water in a bottle, not one that will be served in a jug or directly in a glass. Warning! In India, I met with cases that the water sold in street kiosks was poured into plastic bottles from the well, and then with a lighter the cork was melted to make it look pre-bottled (!). There is a patent for it: always squeeze the bottle with water firmly, if the cork does not fire, it means that the bottle was closed at the factory and you can boldly drink it.
2. Avoid drinks with ice coming from an unknown source Like you remember about bottled water, but how hot it is, man does not pay attention that tap water can also be found in our juice or drink. Inspecting the source of water used seems like a miracle, so I use a simple rule – in the tropics I never drink ice-cold drinks. Believe me, it can be experienced, and the problem of wondering if it would be good water for sure, disappears as the hand took away. 3. Wash fruits and vegetables with bottled or boiled water Remember – the same principle as using ice – washing food with tap water or well is no different to drinking it, because bacteria and viruses will just stay on the food. Even after washing, always take them out. You can also burn the skin with boiling water, which will kill most of the germs. 4. Avoid foods that have not been cooked sufficiently High temperatures and humidity, as well as poor food storage conditions, make it vulnerable to an increase in the number of microorganisms that can cause infection. This particularly applies to meat, eggs, seafood and dairy products. Do not eat undercooked food and food that you are not sure that it has undergone heat treatment or, for example, has been out of the refrigerator for a long time. Contrary to appearances, it is not difficult to travel, for example stalls in Southeast Asia are a breeding ground for bacteria, viruses and fungi. Just look at the raw meat or fish, which without a refrigerator lie on the countertops for many hours, and should turn on you a warning lamp. Another example – Cuba and famous cakes with whipped cream sell on the street at 30 degrees (without a refrigerator). We definitely say NO to such snacks. 5. Watch out for street eateries and stalls I know, I know, you will be outraged right now, because how to go to a new place and not try the local cuisine at the points where mainly locals eat and usually very cheap. I’m not saying no, but just be careful. Try to choose those in which there is a lot of traffic, so the food has to be prepared on a regular basis, and try the dishes cooked and fried. In addition, pay attention to what these dishes are served – ideally, these are disposable plates and cutlery, and not, for example, plastic reusable. All you have to do is look closely at the place to see that your plate after the predecessor has just been roughly rinsed in a large bowl of water that has been there for several hours and has more bacteria in it than you can imagine. 6. Brush your teeth with water from the bottle or boiled Sounds fancy? But it is not. Every experienced traveler will tell you that the first moment you arrive at an exotic place is to put a bottle of mineral water in the bathroom. For example, to remember about her when brushing your teeth, because we do not have a reflex to rinse the mouth with water from the bottle. I will go even a step further – you can also wash your face with such water, and if you think that it is too much, always, but always close your mouth washing your mouth or bathing in the shower (and then dry the face and the mouth area with a towel) by accident, do not swallow water. It’s still the same tap water that we try to avoid, and sometimes one drop is enough to poison. Believe me, I did it in India – precisely because I forgot to close my mouth, washing my hair in the shower. 7. Wash your hands often and always wipe them Frequent washing shortens life – says the adage, but not this time. Hand hygiene is an absolute foundation. Always wash them before eating and use soap. Additionally, remember to dry your hands with a towel – for the same reasons as above – to avoid mouth contact or food with water. And, best of all, have a MUST HAVE with you every traveler – an alcohol-based disinfectant gel – and use it even after washing your hands.
Insects are really a difficult opponent. There are plenty of them, they are small and “spread with the speed of light.” Their intrusiveness is not limited to bubbles on the skin or unbearable buzzing over the ear. Insects are one of the most dangerous carriers of infectious diseases, such as malaria, fever, dengue or Japanese encephalitis. Contrary to appearances, you only need one insect bite to become infected. And these diseases are nasty and for some of them (eg malaria or dengue) there is no currently available vaccine. It means that our only weapon is prevention, or in short, do not let yourself bite. Because I assume that the use of the most effective method minimizing the risk, i.e. not indulging in places at risk of morbidity (unfortunately, nowadays a large part of the world and everything we call tropics),
RULES YOU NEED TO REMEMBER
1. Repellents, repellents and repellents The simplest and most effective rule – use repellents, that is chemical substances, repelling insects. Choose, however, those that contain DEET or ikicdynÄ. The formula – spray, gel or roll-on is optional. It is also important to know what concentration to choose. In the case of DEET, it should not exceed 20% in children and 50% in adults. However, it is not a suitable remedy for infants under 2 months old. DEET agents last for about 6 hours, but they should be used more often, for example after a water bath. My advice is: do not hesitate to use repellents. Do not approach this: I do not want to, I have forgotten, and maybe nothing will bite me. I also had such a selective approach, until in Thailand I fell ill with Dengue. You can also try local remedies that are often based on insect repellent ingredients (such as lemon eucalyptus oil or ordinary oil) and are equally effective. Warning! Remember that in tropical countries where you use UV filters, the repellent is applied to the skin after first protecting it with sunscreen. 2. Cover the body There are many guides that advise you to cover up in the tropics from head to toe, i.e. long trousers, long sleeves, socks, and high boots. And if you look at a local, eg in Thailand, you will actually see that even in 30 degrees they wear jeans and blouses with long sleeves. In part, it is a habit to high temperatures, and partly protection against mosquitoes. However, I am aware that if we do not go to the jungle or safari, only for a holiday trip to warm countries, everyone wants to take advantage of this heat and sun, and walking in jeans is the last thing he dreams about. I have such a patent for it that I wear, for example, long thin dresses or thin loose pants that cover the skin, but are still airy. I put on a tunic or kimono on my shoulders, so I do not feel covered from head to toe, Warning! When traveling more survivalowych it is worth considering buying clothing factory impregnated insecticide, such as permethrin, means a measure that has a deterrent effect on various species of insects, including: chamomiles, ticks, gnats and sand fleas. 3. Prepare your accommodation Checking the room before falling asleep is very important. First of all, take a look at the tightness of windows and doors, check if the safety nets have holes and remove all mosquitoes from the room. I definitely recommend you choose rooms with air conditioning, because it is a natural barrier that runs over insects. If you do not have air conditioning, it is necessary to choose a place with a mosquito net, but be careful – check that there are no holes, because in many hostels or hotels unfortunately mosquito nets at the beds leave much to be desired. Traveling in Southeast Asia to less developed countries, such as Laos or Cambodia, I had my own mosquito net in my backpack (PLN 15 on Allegro), which saved me many times from the bloodthirsty attacks of mosquitoes. 4. The time of the day matters The mosquito transmitting diseases is not attacked only at dawn and at dusk. Different types of them carry different pathogens over the course of a circular day, so realizing that we are exposed all the time is an important principle that should mobilize us to continually protect ourselves. During the day, they feed on mosquitoes carrying dengue, chikungunya fever, zika and yellow fever. However, at night, the likelihood of a mosquito infesting malaria, Japanese encephalitis and fever of the western Nile is increased.
5. Not just mosquitoes Let’s also disprove the myth that only mosquitoes threaten us. Insects carrying dangerous diseases are much more and there is nothing to panic, but be aware that the application of the above principles protects us against the entire spectrum of insects. In a tropical climate there are often sandworms (extremely irritating micro-openings that are difficult to see and which do not sound like a mosquito) – leishmaniasis carriers, onchocercosis flies, Chrysops from which loas may develop and known tusks tse carrying an African coma. In a word – there is nothing to be protected from!
Exotic journeys also involve possible contact with unfamiliar animal species living close to humans, e.g. monkeys in Indonesia or India. Our first instinct is the desire to look at them closely, take a photo, etc. However, you must be careful, because they are still wild animals, often carriers of diseases such as rabies. Bats are also carriers of bats, for example in caves. What’s more, the probability of being bitten by a dog or cat is even greater, and these are not lacking, for example in Thailand – there are whole hordes of them. It is worth to get vaccinated on rabies, and in contact with animals be restrained. If you travel to open areas and close to nature, be sure to watch out for snakes, scorpions and spiders. Animals that are practically non-existent in Poland, so we are not accustomed to taking them into account in our way of thinking.
RULES YOU NEED TO REMEMBER
1. Avoid contact The simplest rule – stay away from unfamiliar animals. Do not try to touch the monkeys and do not use their food (it irritates them very much and can cause them to aggressively). The same with random dogs or cats, even domesticated ones. In poorly developed countries, the approach to animals is different than in the West, no one vaccinates them and does not control them at the vet, and most of them are not. 2. Wear full footwear Flip-flops for a walk to the jungle? No thanks! When choosing to the jungle, forest or rural areas, remember to wear full footwear, because it will best protect you against possible bites of animals living in the grass and undergrowth. Always check your shoes before putting them on and thoroughly shake them off. It is hard to imagine how much it can fit in one shoe, for example to my trainer left on the terrace in Thailand, four frogs have been packed! You do not know how difficult it was to remove them from him! 3. Protect the youngest If you are traveling with children, be aware that through their growth they are an easy target for animals such as dogs or cats, which makes them extremely vulnerable to possible contact with their saliva or bite. Especially that children do not have barriers in themselves and are more likely to cling to animals. 4. Prepare for snorkeling If you have plans to snorkeling, get special rubber footwear that protects you from stepping on poisonous sea animals. Here you do not have to look far – eg in Croatia there are many sea urchins, whose sting is very painful and poisonous. And what’s new in the warm waters of Australia.
Often, what you cannot see is the most dangerous, hence one of the most recommended is the tetanus vaccine, which is found in the soil. It’s easy to get infected with it, because you only need a small abrasion or scratch on your feet (and that’s easy to do), which in combination with the outdoor shoes we use on holidays, exposes us to potential contagion. The best protection is definitely wearing covered shoes.
RULES YOU NEED TO REMEMBER
1. Try not to walk barefoot After all, even the thinnest flaps are able to protect against infection. Also avoid places with contaminated soil or sand. 2. Watch where you go Avoid also places with high grass, bushes, venturing into the forest after dark. 3. Do not take a bath in unmarked places It is also good to avoid swimming or wading in water reservoirs or shallow ponds, because there may also be parasites in them. WHAT ELSE? At the end I will add a few important rules that will certainly help you in small and large trips: 1. FLIGHTS AND JET LAG After reaching the new place, give yourself time to acclimatize and get used to, for example, high temperatures or changes in altitude. Visiting and exploring with a lot of tiredness and shock of the organism resulting from changes in time and climate zones – is a simple step to its weakening, and thus greater susceptibility to disease. 2. SUN PROTECTION In a hot and tropical climate remember about the proper irrigation of the body and necessarily about sunscreen. Do not underestimate the sun, because the closer to the equator, the stronger it is and tans us faster and harder. And against such a sun we are protected only by very high filters (minimum 30 SPF) and necessarily a headgear! It is not about a nice tan, but about avoiding sun shocks, strokes and skin melanoma. 3. HUMAN FACTOR A factor that is very important and which is often underestimated. When traveling, it happens to get sick and even go to the hospital. In addition to good and proven insurance, which is an absolute basis, whether it is a short trip to Europe or a trip to the tropics – you also need to have eyes around the head in the context of medical facilities. In poorly developed countries, the level of sterility and professionalism of personnel may deviate from Western standards, which makes a tourist risk of contracting Hepatitis B or HIV / AIDS while taking IV drip or intravenous medications. So if you have a choice (I’m not talking about extreme cases of life and death, when any help is already all), think about it five times if the place you came to meets the standards of cleanliness. This also applies to casual sexual encounters – always use condoms and be aware that in developing countries the risk of contracting STDs and HIV / AIDS is much higher than in Europe. The same applies to the performance of cosmetic treatments or tattooing – if you have to, choose a reputable place, because it will reduce the likelihood of contracting, among others WZW B and C. 4. PLAN WITH YOUR HEAD! I know that when the journey of a journey comes, everything else goes to the background, but be careful in all of this. The world will not escape us, and health may, so choose carefully the places you want to visit. Check the pages of embassies that provide current information on eg natural cadastre, as well as the WHO website, which updates information on the epidemic or the increased risk of infection, eg dengue in a given region. If you do not have to, do not push yourself into dangerous places or wait for the threat to pass. None of us is untouchable, but most dangerous situations can be avoided. On the one hand, adventure is an adventure, but on the other – at the end of the day what is really important is health and safety. Without this, each trip loses its flavor.
When dogs drag their anus across the carpet or grass it is commonly referred to as “scooting”. There are several common causes for this behavior.
The first is a blockage of the anal gland. This is actually quite common in all breeds of dogs. When the gland becomes blocked it causes irritation in the form of itching. The dog then begins “scooting” across the floor or ground to sooth the area.
In most cases the blocked gland will clear up on it’s own. At times it may require a short visit to the vet. The vet will simply squeeze the blocked gland and remove the blockage. It is a completely painless procedure for the dog. Actually the dog will be quite grateful for the relief of the itching.
If you have a good relationship with your veterinarian, he’ll probably be willing to show you how to squeeze the gland yourself. It is very quick and easy to do, saving you the expense of a veterinary office call.
Another common cause of “scooting” behavior is the presence of worms. These may include tape and whip worms, which are the most likely to cause the “scooting” behavior.
When tapeworm segments are near the anal opening they can cause itching and irritation. If your dogs “scooting” behavior is due to tapeworms, you may see segments stuck on or around the anus. The tapeworm segments resemble grains of rice. They are white in color but turn slightly yellowed when out of the dogs body.
Whip worms are another possible cause for the behavior. Whip worms are tiny white worms that are constantly in motion, with a very rapid whipping motion. For whip worms to be the cause of your dogs “scooting” behavior, the infestation is very bad. You will actually see a mass of these wriggling worms at the anal opening.
For treatment you’ll need to first worm the dog. There are many over the counter wormers available. The veterinarian also can administer a pill that will take care of a wide range of worms in one shot. This is by far the best treatment.
Since these types of worms infestations can also cause irritation to the anal gland, you should have them squeezed to ensure there is no blockage. This should be done after the worms are gone.
Another common cause of the “scooting” behavior in dogs is flea bite allergies. Fleas will seek out the anal area for moisture, biting the dog which causes itching and irritation.
The only treatment for this cause is the elimination of the fleas. In my opinion there is nothing better for doing this than Frontline Plus.
It’s important to pay attention to your dogs behavior. If your dog is “scooting” it is an indication of an underlying issue. One that should be corrected for the health and wellbeing of your dog, as well as his general comfort.
When little Fido is rump scooting across the living room rug in the middle of watching Mall Cop on television, the first reaction that comes from the children’s section is hysterical laughter — moreso even than watching the movie. But rump scooting is not a new trick. It is a serious problem for Fido that most inexperienced dog owners do not yet recognize.
There are only two things that can come from most rump scooting of dogs: (1) worms or (2) plugged anal glands. Determining which one it is will require a trip to the family veterinarian. But if you are an experienced dog owner and have your dog on a routine worming schedule, you will know instantly it is probably plugged anal glands. If you have just had your dog to the vet and had the anal glands “expressed” and do not have your dog on a worming regime, you can bet your boots it is probably worms.
But before getting too excited, ruling out little simple problems can be done before rushing off to the vet and having the poor dog’s rectum taken care of in a not-so-pleasant manner. Dried feces in the anal area, or even a small weed or twig lodged in the hair of the rectal area can drive a dog crazy. They have been known to cause the animal to go rump scooting all over the rug as if in a dead race, trying to dislodge these itchy and annoying items. Checking this area out manually should be done before getting too excited about serious rump-scooting issues like plugged anal sacs, rectal conditions or worms.
Anal rump scooting: signs and treatments
Anal sacs are positioned on both sides of the dog’s anus, located in the 5 and 7 o’clock positions. When they are plugged, the dog will rump scoot around the floor while attempting to dislodge this odd and uncomfortable feeling. At this point, the pet owner can easily insert the first finger into the rectum while keeping the thumb outside, forcibly squeezing the plugged secretions for removal.
Referred to as “expressing” the anal sacs, these plugged sacs need to be emptied before they become impacted and eventually progressing to abscess and rupturing. When this occurs, a vet will need to express them as the area is extremely tender with the sacs uncomfortably distended. As the secretions of the anal sacs discharge, their color will be thick and dark or grayish brown.
If the secretions do not completely empty out due to insufficient pressure on the sacs, they will become impacted — a situation which is known to occur mainly in small-breed dogs. This will require minor surgery of the anus. Such dogs with routine anal problems should be placed on a high-fiber diet or given a bulk laxative.
Worms: signs and treatments
Rump scooting may indicate the dog simply has worms — easily seen as little rice-looking white kernels crawling around the rectum area. These will irritate the dog and cause them to itch, relieved by the dog when it scoots. The rice segments are nothing but broken-off moving segments about 1/4 -inch long of a long tapeworm located in the small intestine. Dogs should be checked for this type of worm twice a year as they originate from fleas and lice, a common occurrence in dogs — and hard to get rid of.
If the dog is thought to have worms, it will need to be tested at the vet by taking a feces sample in. Some vets insert a tool like a large cotton-swab into the rectum to check the feces for blood and to see what type of worms the dog has. An appropriate worming regime will be given, depending on the type of worm the dog has, and an antibiotic if the dog has become anemic.
Summer blooms not only with colorful flowers but also with various parasites, and there is no doubt that as a pet parent, you take considerable steps to control these pests especially ticks. Ticks can be picked up easily by furry pals and are huge in number whether it’s urban area or rural area. These blood sucking creatures that belong to the spider group can cause a wide range of diseases, including Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain fever, which are highly dangerous for pet health as well as humans too.
Usually present on leaf litter, undergrowth and long grass within heathland, woodland, rough pasture as well as urban parks and gardens, ticks are picked up on hair, clothes when a dog or person brushes part them. Feeding on the blood of animals, they can pick up the infection and can pass on from one animal to another.
To avoid these blood-thirsty critters, follow the tick tips and protect your furry pal.
Round the WORLD Tick Tips
Buy a tick removal device such as a tick key from your vet or an online store, so you can easily remove any tick, which you may notice on your furry pal.
When taking your dog to a new area, always look for warning signs on lampposts that can indicate whether the area is full of ticks or not, and you can avoid taking your pooch there.
Do not try to take your dog through lush green areas, long grass or marshy places. These areas are usually highly infested with ticks.
To locate ticks, always check your dog’s neck, ears and legs after walks. Though the tick may not necessarily bite, it may take time to find a suitable site on the skin. Therefore, it is crucial to brush off pets and clothing whenever you and your furry pal return from a walk.
In case, if you find any lump, part the hair and look more closely, maybe using a magnifying glass. Once a tick has started to feed, its body will start filling with blood. Adult fleas are easy to be seen as they swell many times their original size, sometimes as large as a pea. However, mostly they are as small as a poppy seed, so you have to look closely.
If you find any tick, then immediately take tick key or any other tick removal device to remove it. Don’t forget to wear gloves while removing it. When a tick is removed within first 24-hours, there are less chances of getting an infection.
Do not crush or squeeze the tick, as this can result in breakage of head and body, releasing toxic saliva harming your pet.
Dispose of the tick by crushing it between tissue paper and flushing it down the toilet.
Along with this, you should also treat your pet with tick medications. These parasite treatments will kill ticks as well as protect your dog from harmful tick infestation.
o Fleas spend only 10% of their time on your animal
o An average fleas’ life span can be up to 2-3 years
o One female flea can lay up to 1 million eggs during its life
o Eggs can live unhatched in your carpet for a year until the right environment for hatching occurs
o Bark dust, wood piles and ivy are great places for fleas to survive the winter months
o The flea is the second oldest insect (the cockroach is the first) because of its excellent survival mechanisms
The Flea Life Cycle
Adult cat and dog fleas prefer to feed on pets rather than people. The pets are closer to the ground and have warmer body temperatures than humans. Second choice would be children — especially infants and toddlers. Female fleas will probe and bite and average of seven times in a “grouping” before locating a blood vessel in the skin. The saliva they leave with each bite can cause a localized allergic reaction (flea allergy dermatitis or FAD as we call it in the veterinary world.) After feeding on large amounts of blood, the female flea deposits her eggs and droppings (flea dirt) which consists mostly of undigested blood. Both the eggs (which are white and about the size of a grain of salt) and the droppings (which are black and appear like ground pepper, often in the shape of a comma) drop off the animal’s coat and spread all over the environment.
Home test to see if your pet has fleas
Lay out a white piece of butcher paper and groom your pet for a few minutes as they stand on the paper. Do you see any black, comma-looking things against the white paper? If so, put a drop of water on it. If it’s flea dirt, the water will turn pink.
Flea eggs remain in the environment for variable amounts of time and are not destroyed by extremes in temperature or by pesticides. When proper conditions exist, the eggs hatch and release tiny white larvae. These larvae are not able to get around and must rely on the undigested blood left in the droppings for their food source. Larvae are very susceptible to extremes in the environment, pesticides, and insect growth regulators.
Within several days the larvae spin a protective cocoon called a pupae around themselves. The pupae are very resistant to all but steam cleaning and can lie dormant for many months to years. The pupae is the primary stage that over-winters in the environment. When conditions are favorable (warm and moist), the pupae release young adult fleas and the cycle is complete.
The length of the flea life cycle can vary from a little as one month to as long as two or three years.
Flea Control Products
There are many products available to eliminate fleas. They differ in effectiveness, application, safety, convenience, odor of the product, and duration of effectiveness. Sounds pretty complicated, right? It is. It’s actually a chemical nightmare.
AN EFFECTIVE FLEA CONTROL PROGRAM MUST INCLUDE ALL ANIMALS IN THE HOUSEHOLD AND THE ENTIRE ENVIRONMENT IN WHICH THE ANIMALS LIVE (INCLUDING YOUR CAR.)
Many people only use one product at a time, which is NOT effective. You must treat the animal, the house, and the yard all at one time to get this challenge under control.
Control of fleas on the pet
You have your choice of powders, sprays, dips, spot-ons or oral growth regulators.
Flea Powder: Manufacturers of these products say flea powder is safe to use every 3-4 days on dogs and cats older than 8 weeks of age. The active ingredient, (pyrethrins being the safest and most natural ingredient) takes about 15 minutes to kill fleas when first applied. By the end of 5-7 days, if not reapplied, flea powder works only as a residual, taking up to 12 hours to kill the flea. There is no growth regulator in this product so it only kills the adults.
Note: Powder should be diluted to half strength with talcum powder when used on puppies and kittens.
Disadvantages of flea powder
Flea powder can make the coat feel rough and dirty. So, if your pet is already uncomfortable from the fleas and now you are alienating them by not giving them the affection you used to when their coats were cleaner and softer, this makes the problem worse. The animals do not enjoy flea powder and it may make asthma worse.
Flea Sprays
Sprays can vary somewhat. Most are alcohol-based and some are more organic than others. The alcohol is for quick kill of the adult and pre-adult stages. Some flea sprays contain an insect growth regulator that will kill flea eggs as well. Make sure you get one with this in it. Pets run when they see you come to them with that bottle after a few applications.
The only time I use flea spray is when I’m treating a cat for ear mites (I spray some on a Kleenex and wipe their head down after I clean their ears and put medication down both ear canals.) I also use it to spray my pant legs when I take walks in the woods during tick season.
So, could you use rubbing alcohol or vodka to kill the adults? Yes, but using rubbing alcohol can be toxic. Rubbing alcohol contains a bit of methanol, which can cause blindness when ingested. Cats groom themselves and will ingest this. If you want to use alcohol, stick with vodka or Everclear, but it’s really not very effective.
Aromatherapy
Herbal insecticides include pennyroyal (very toxic), clove, citronella, and eucalyptus oils (diluted of course.) These can be mixed in with shampoos or applied to a material flea collar. They can be very irritating when applied directly to the skin. They should not be put directly onto the coat either because when the animal grooms himself or herself they will ingest it. In general, pets hate this type of flea control and only submit to it in a learned helplessness type of situation.
Flea collars are only minimally effective in the control of fleas. Most collars contain dichlorvos, which is released as a vapor. They are sold under several trade names. Dichlorvos is toxic to animals and people and can cause severe reactions occasionally. Remember, flea and tick collars don’t work well for animals over 20 pounds.
Note: Collars are especially harmful to Persian cats. They may also cause localized reactions around the neck.
Ultrasonic collars
Ultrasonic collars are ineffective and may cause hearing loss in your pet. Ultrasonic collars are an expensive gimmick. Don’t fall for this.
Dips which kill fleas and mites for several days or weeks are highly toxic and should not be used for routine flea control. One study found that more than 3 dips per year led to an increased incidence of cancer. Wear gloves if you decide on this method of flea control (although I have no idea why you would.) Try to pick a non-organophosphate (OGP) type with a growth inhibitor in it.
Pour-on and Spot-on products containing organophosphates are also very toxic. Organophosphate spot-on kills the fleas only after it bites the pet and sucks its blood. These products are also dangerous where infants are concerned. Do not let a small child be exposed to the pet for at least 24 hours after these products are used. I have heard of instances where the parent found a dead infant the day after putting this on the family dog that slept with the child. They are applied once every two weeks. A good rule of thumb is “if a little is good, a lot is NOT necessarily better.” Use only the dose specified on the bottle. Make sure you know the weight of the animal before you dose them. Make note of the next paragraph.
Common side effects to flea products
Common side effects to flea products may include hypersalivation, vomiting, and diarrhea. Some animals appear to foam at the mouth, others stagger about. Their pupils dilate and they seem disoriented. The best treatment is to remove the product from the animal’s skin or body. Bathe your pet immediately–with a mild shampoo NOT containing flea control. Some animals may need to be treated by a veterinarian with atropine or steroids to help the animal deal with the toxicity and in some instances to save their lives. If you have any questions, do not hesitate to call your vet.
One product on the market seems to be working quite well and is minimally toxic. It is called Advantage. Advantage is a spot-on with a growth inhibitor, which works for 3-4 weeks. It permeates the fatty layer of the skin. It should be applied after the bath because bathing leeches the product from the skin. Advantix is a formula that is used for those who are in a tick area. It is also fairly safe.
For dogs that swim regularly, this product may not work as well as others such as Program. If Advantage is not working for you, you are most likely not following a total flea control program of treating all animals in your house, premise spraying the house, the car and treating the yard as well.
Occasionally I have seen Advantage react locally with the skin causing the hair in that area to fall out, but this is rare.
Program is an oral product that contains growth inhibitor. It is given once a month and literally sterilizes the adult fleas so they cannot produce any eggs. It is very safe for both the animal and owners. The animals don’t mind the taste in most cases and it is very effective when used with environmental control. Some forms of Program also include a heartworm preventative and monthly roundwormer (pyrantel pamoate). This product is especially recommended for flea problems of a larger magnitude and for long term maintenance. It’s not a good product for the flea allergic pet, however because the flea still needs to bite the pet to ingest the growth inhibitor.
Frontline products
I am often asked about Frontline products. I will have to say that I have never muscle-tested this product to be safe for any pet. It sure is popular and sells like crazy (I don’t carry it.) I don’t know why, but Advantage and Program seem to be the safest products with the fewest chance for side effects.
Flea Shampoos
Flea Shampoos provide no protection once they are rinsed off. They can provide temporary relief (a few hours with severe infestation of the environment) and will kill the fleas on the animal at the time of the bath. They are good in getting rid of the flea dirt on the skin, but they also dry the skin out and are not good for dogs with dry/flaky or oily/greasy skin. It’s better to choose the correct medicated shampoo for your pet in these cases.
Apply flea spray, powder, or Advantage to the pet after the bath for longer lasting results. Any animal having skin disease along with the flea problem should see your veterinarian for proper treatment and recommendations regarding diet, shampoo and treatments.
I’m sorry to say that B-Vitamins, Brewer’s Yeast, Garlic, Cedar Chips and Herbal Flea Collars will not kill fleas. They do, however, make the skin smell bad to the flea and will deter them. Scientific studies show a decrease of only 20% in the flea numbers with the use of these products.
Note: Cedar chips and shavings can be harmful to your pet’s skin. The slivers off the chips can embed into the skin and cause tumors (that goes for rats too!). The essential oil of the wood is also very toxic and has been known to cause cancer.
Avon Skin-So-Soft
Avon Skin-So-Soft is used by itself as a flea deterrent and is in Duo-Cide products. To use this product, add 2 tablespoons Skin-So-Soft per pint water in a pint spray bottle. Shake well just before using each time–it is an oil/water interface. Skin-So-Soft may make the coat oily and you may have to wash the pet more often as the dust will stick to this oil more readily. If your pet has allergies, this would not be a good choice. The goal is to reduce allergen exposure on the coat for allergic pets. This product would help the pollens to adhere to your pet causing more problems.
Flea combs are highly recommended for animals that cannot tolerate flea products. The challenge is to get the owners to use the comb as often as necessary to help the animal–every day. Grooming can be biweekly after you comb off no more fleas for several days in a row. Continue to use the flea comb daily for those flea-allergic pets. Fleas need to be crushed with a thumbnail as they have very hard exoskeletons.
Some fleas combs are better than others. Try to purchase one that will rake off the adult fleas, eggs, and flea dirt all at once. These combs are also excellent in the prevention of hairballs in cats (and will comb out lice in a child’s hair very effectively). Fleas combs won’t comb through the longer coats very easily–the tines bend and break. I like the kind imported from England. They have a great handle you can palm and metal tines that can really take a beating (or grooming.) I also use my flea comb to comb out the winter coats on my pets. They cost about $7.00.
Treating the Pet’s Environment:
In general, the products used in the environment can be more toxic and last longer than those which are applied to the animal. Never use these products directly on your pet or children unless the bottle states it is safe to do so (even then, I would question this.)
Where young children and infants are concerned, more importance is placed on safety than effectiveness. This is why it is important for you to be involved in the choices of products for your home and pets.
Premise control products
Premise control products kill only the susceptible stages of the fleas at the point in time they are used. They are fairly safe and can be used as the main environmental treatment in homes that have birds and fishes as pets. The frequency of fogging and spraying depends upon the temperature and humidity, degree of flea infestation, the traffic of pets in and out, the effectiveness of the products used, and the amount of household clutter in which fleas can hide.
Foggers
Foggers are designed to cover large enclosed areas and are set off while all occupants (including pets) are away. They are most effective in empty spaces and in crawl spaces. In homes with furniture or items covering the floor they are not very effective. Foggers can take care of up to 80% of the problem. Make sure you get one with a growth inhibitor in it.
When using foggers, remove all living things from the premises. Cover your fish tanks and remove all the birds. Read labels prior to using any foggers or premise sprays. Because the insect growth regulator Methoprene is also removed with vacuuming, vacuum or steam clean before using them and wait at least 4 days after fogging to vacuum. Foggers are basically gone after 10-15 vacuumings.
Put your dollars into growth inhibitor products for most effective and economical results.
Premise Sprays
Premise Sprays are designed for spot treatment or for difficult to reach areas and for areas which are not enclosed such as a back porch or doghouse. Use premise sprays for the baseboards, under the furniture, and between the couch cushions and around the edges of the water bed mattress.
These products last 2-3 months, are not as easily vacuumed up (they last for 20-30 vacuumings) and are very good for high traffic areas and for continuous protection. These products are broken down and become ineffective by the sun’s rays. Use them for touch up in well-traveled pathways in the house where you may vacuum more often. Don’t forget to treat your car if you pets travel with you (even just once to the vet.) This product is effective and a good use for your dollars.
Yard and kennel sprays are for outdoor use and should be used in accordance with manufacturer recommendations. Most fleas live within a 30-foot radius of the building — where most pets spend their time. These sprays can be purchased at your veterinarian’s office, pet shops, on-line, or at the local garden store.
Nematodes that eat flea larvae
A few years ago I carried a natural product of nematodes to sprinkle on your lawn that would kill the flea larvae. That would be a great product if it were effective. The downfalls to this product were that it had to be kept wet, the expiration dates are short, it is expensive, and one can does not go far. If anyone of you out there has found a good product like this could be, let me know!
Malathion and Sevin
These sprays used most frequently for the yard, but get inactivated by sunshine and they will not last over 3-7 days. Spray them after the sun has gone down and when you know it won’t be raining for a day or two.
Housekeeping can be an extremely effective flea control measure. Vacuuming will remove flea eggs, pupae and the flea droppings used by the larvae for food. Vacuum up some flea powder or add a piece of flea collar to each new bag or burn the vacuum sweepings to prevent fleas from completing their life cycle in the compost heap or trash bag. Vacuuming EVERY DAY is essential if you don’t want to use chemicals. Also, getting rid of carpet in your house helps a lot. I would also recommend an occasional shampoo of the carpets (not dry-chemical cleaning) as it will suffocate the cocoons.
A note about worms: When fleas (or mice) are ingested by your pet the tapeworm (cestode) is allowed to finish its life cycle. If you see rice-sized segments sticking to the hairs around the rectum of your pet or see the segments or “ribbon or noodle-like” worms in the stool or on the animals bedding you should contact your veterinarian for a drug to treat them. Over-the-counter worm preparations only treat nematodes (roundworms) and are not effective against tapeworms. Worming may be necessary as often as every three weeks (the life cycle of the tapeworm) depending on the severity of the flea problem.
When in doubt (especially for large dogs, which can be very expensive to worm,) bring in a fresh stool sample for a floatation. The floatation may not show eggs even though your pet has worms.
My recommendation
My recommendation is to worm your pets if you are seeing fleas with a good tapewormer (Cestex is wonderful) and worm twice a year with pyrantel pamoate (also called Nemex or Strongid-T) roundwormer. Piperzine is useless these days for roundworming and no longer works at all in cats. The grocery store doses are ineffective.
If you have wormers at home and would like to try to use them up first, call your vet. We need to know the chemical name (scientific name) to be able to tell you if you have the proper medication.
NEVER give a store bought wormer to a pet who is sick unless your vet is consulted first. You may cause some severe problems–especially with triple wormers. I once had a relative give her pregnant dog a triple wormer. The dog strained so much that her uterus burst and she died.
Diatomaceous Earth
Not all diatomaceous earth (DE) is alike. Stay away from filtration types. All DE that is used for filtration purposes (pools, spas, etc) has undergone chemical and heat treatment. The heat treatment greatly increases the percentage of crystalline silica, which poses a serious inhalation risk. DE has high crystalline silica content and some DE has high levels of arsenic in it. Our local organic people recommend Perma-Guard (www.perma-guard.com). Another brand to use that is safe is Biconet. Only natural untreated DE should be used for insect control.
How does DE work? The dust clogs their breathing apparatus so they suffocate. Unfortunately it may also make asthma symptoms worsen.
Mopping with soap and mild bleach water is quite effective for flea control in those houses with no carpets. Many of my clients with flea allergic animals and inhalant allergy children eventually change over to hardwood floors and linoleum.
Flea attractant lights. What a racket. Don’t waste your money on this gimmick. White dishes filled with water and Joy dish soap: I suspect if you are attracting fleas to this kind of contraption that you have a severe infestation and should think about doing something a bit more effective.
Well, I hope this helps your flea problem. Good luck! You’ll need it.
Q. What is the best natural dewormer for dogs? ANSWER
So you found out your dog has worms! Don’t worry, you are not alone. Finding that your dog has worms is a common thing for dog owners.
FIRST: Confirm The Worm
Intestinal worms and parasites are different than internal heartworms, and are treated differently.
Most worms that infect dogs include roundworms, tapeworms, hookworms, and whipworms live in the intestines, so that’s the first place for your vet to look. Usually, you will have to take a stool sample to your vet, and they will examine it under a microscope to see what type of worms your dog has. For heartworms, a blood test is usually required to detect heartworms. Some dogs may have a small amount of worms that pose no threat to the dog, since some dogs have different immune levels, and for some dogs, just the slightest infestation could kill them.
With the different types of dog worms found, it is important to make sure you put your puppy or dog on a deworming program at the start of 2 weeks old. Some worms you can not see with the naked eye, and it is important for the puppy or dog’s health to be protected against these parasites that infect their bodies sometimes.
Here are some other things you can do to help prevent worms. Try not to let your puppy or dog play with dead animals or rodents. This is where most tapeworms come from. Puppies are prone to tasting their feces matter, so make sure you discourage that, and clean up waste right away. This is the most common way for puppies and dogs to get worms.
Having your dog on a flea prevention program is great, since fleas help spread tapeworms in dogs. The dog park is sometimes not the best place for your dog to hang out. Sure, he or she would love it, but some other dog owners do not have their dogs under control, and this is an easy place for other dogs to catch stuff, from digging in the dirt to jumping on and licking other dogs.
Too many worms for any dog would be bad, and totally affect their health and well being. Your dog would have diarrhea, and their shiny coat of hair would become dull looking. Most of the nutrients your dog needs from food would be going to the worms, and your dog would lose energy and lose weight. The red blood cells would become destroyed, and the dog would become anemic.
You can find many different types of natural dewormer for dogs or medicated dog dewormers from pet stores to online pet stores and some of the major retailers of pet products. Dewormers can come in the form of pills, soft chews, liquid or injection. Make sure you understand how to do it. Each company and type of dewormer could have different directions. Most vets recommend deworming your puppy at 2, 4, 6, 8 and 12 weeks old. Then follow the directions, as some medicines will be monthly, or quarterly, and even semi annually. So ask your vet which dewormer is best for you, or follow the directions closely on the dewormer product your purchase.
ANSWER: The best natural dewormer for dogs is the one that works for your dog.
With a variety of options on the market we know not all size fits one. Texas Pet Company brings a easy solution for those seeking to deworm your dog using natural ingredients like Pumpkin Seeds, Diatomaceous Earth and Apple Cider Vinegar.
They provide an easy and safer alternative to worm pillsfor dogs in the form of soft chews.
